I.Introduction

Foreign apparel brands entered the Korean market in earnest after trade barriers were lowered worldwide in the 1990s. As the national income level is increasing, consumers’ desires have become more individuated and diversified. Furthermore, they recognize and prefer high class and trendy imported clothing brands. To meet customers’ desires, the number of imported brand is increasing, as are the variety of goods and the direct import of finished goods. As of 2007, a total of 887 imported brands were available in Korea, and American brands were the majority, numbering 217 (Ann, 2007).

Against this backdrop, complaints about size are likely to occur due to the failure to reflect the body sizes of consumers in target countries. One Korean study’s report (Sohn et al., 2001), which concerns the wearing and purchase of directly imported apparel brands, states that 37.9% of 116 subjects expressed their dissatisfaction with fit, which suggests the importance of this quality. In one previous study (Choi & Chun, 2010), a survey was conducted to determine whether directly-imported American apparels are suitable for the bodies of Korean women. It revealed that Korean women were generally dissatisfied with American direct imports in terms of fit. In particular, the overall fit of pants was a problem, including waist girth, hip girth and pants length. These problems resulted from the difference in body size of customers between the manufacturing country and the importing country. Another study (Choi & Chun, 2011) compared the lower body sizes of Korean and American women in their twenties who wore medium-sized pants by American standards. According to the study’s results, the difference between hip girth and waist girth of American women was greater than the measurements in Korean women; in other words, American women had greater lower body curves. Moreover, Americans had longer legs than their Korean counterparts. In contrast, Koreans’ waist-to-hip lines were relatively flat, and the waist-tocrotch lengths were longer than those of American women. In a way, it would be natural to see such a different body shape and the dissatisfaction with fit. However, detailed research is required to discern the problems regarding the sizes of directly imported clothes. Such research will provide an opportunity to come up with measures to improve the fit of imported apparel for Korean women.

This study analyzed the fit of pants directly imported from America in the Korean market. It aims to investigate problems of fit in order to suggest improvements. The detailed steps are the following:

1. A wearing test was carried out for Korean female college students to wear and evaluate the comfort and movement. Expert judges then assessed the appearance. Based on the results, the article’s fit would be analyzed.

2. Afterwards, the sizes of the pant patterns were compared and analyzed in an effort to identify the factors behind satisfaction with movement and appearance assessments. Lastly, measures to adjust the patterns for the bodies of Korean women were suggested.

II.Method

1.Analysis of the fit of directly-imported American casual pants

1)Experimental garments

Based on the survey results from a previous study (Choi & Chun, 2010), DKNY, Gap, and Polo Ralph Lauren were chosen as study subjects, as they were preferred by Korean female college students. All three have a relatively large market share. The pants in this study were made of cotton 100% and were not elastic, purchased during April and May of 2010. Dimensions were American medium sizes 8 to 10, which were written as pants A (waist 71 cm, hip 97 cm), pants B (waist 70 cm, hip 98 cm), pants C (waist 69 cm, hip 96 cm) in the Korean labels. Furthermore, they were digitized by Yuka Cad to obtain the pattern, which was then analyzed.

2)Participants and analyzing method

The participants in this study were 5 Korean female college students, ranging in age from 18 to 24 and who had a waist girth 68.6~71.1 cm and a hip girth 95.3~97.8 cm, which fall in the American medium size of 8 to 10. The 3 experimental pants (Pants A, B and C) were constructed based on the pattern of the 3 brands and a wearing test was carried out during September and October of 2010. The study participants wore the pants and evaluated the comfort and satisfaction with movement on a five-point Likert scale. Furthermore, photos of the subjects dressed in the pants were taken, and a group of experts assessed the appearance of the pants using these photos. The assessment group consisted of 5 judges who were in a doctoral course or had a PhD in clothing construction.

3)Assessment

The assessment group assessed the location of the waist and hip girth line, proper ease, fit around the crotch and whether there was a stress fold or not <Table 2, 3>. Comfort was evaluated during movement when standing and sitting. Lastly, ease in the waist, abdomen, hip, thigh, and crotch area was evaluated <Table 4, 5>.

4)Result analysis method

Participants answered questions on the survey sheet with a five-point Likert scale from 5, indicating “very good,” to 1, “very bad.” The SPSS 12.0 program was used to obtain the mean value and the standard deviation and to analyze the satisfaction of each question.

2.Analysis on the improvement of the directlyimported American casual pants

Based on the results of satisfaction of movement and appearance assessment, this study suggests that there needs to be a pattern adjustment for directlyimported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women.

III.Results and Discussion

1.Result of pattern analysis

As a result of comparing the patterns of the three brands pants, the waist girth (85~86 cm) and hip girth (96~98 cm) showed almost no difference among the brands, but the crotch depth (14.9~17.5 cm), leg length (78~85 cm) and hem width (14.7~22.2 cm) showed much difference among the three. Pants C were a bit smaller in waist and hip girth size than Pants A and B and had the shortest crotch depth and the widest belt width. Pants A had a wide leg and hem width and long leg length. Pants B had the longest crotch depth and a narrow leg and hem width <Fig. 1>.

2.Result of the wearing assessment of directlyimported American casual pants

Participants in the wearing test were 5 Korean female college students with an average age of 21.8 who all wore American medium-sized pants. The waist girth (68.3~76.6 cm) varied according to the individual, but their hip girth (95.5~98.1 cm), crotch depth (29.9~32.1 cm), and total crotch girth (73.8~ 76.4 cm) were similar <Table 1>.

1)Result of appearance assessment

The expert judged appearance assessments of the participants’ standing and sitting positions while wearing the experimental pant <Tables 2, 3>.

Pants A received a low assessment in crotch girth (back 2.56) and hip girth (back 2.68) due to the short crotch depth in the standing position, which provided insufficient ease. Moreover, the hem widths were wide (front 2.48, back 2.24 respectively), while the leg length was long (1.92), which also led to a low appearance assessment. The appearance in the sitting position had a higher assessment than the assessment in the standing position. Pants B were expected to be the most appropriate for Korean women’s bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, Pants B didn’t garner positive results. Pants C were rated most satisfactory for their thigh girth (front 3.48, back 3.12), knee girth (front 3.64, back 3.64), and hem width (front 3.88, back 3.60) in the standing position among the three brands. However, the crotch part(front 2.80, back 2.44) was uncomfortable, as the short crotch depth (front 2.80, back 2.84) hindered ease. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment (back 2.76). In the sitting position, Pants C provided little ease in waist girth (front 2.84) and hip girth (2.70). The crotch part was uncomfortable due to the short crotch depth (front 2.88) and little ease (front 2.76). Pants C was rated most satisfactory for their thigh girth (front 3.36, side 3.48), knee girth (front 3.56, side 3.48), and hem width (front 4.40, side 4.28). All three brands were commonly rated bad in terms of the appearance of the hip girth, crotch girth and leg length. Pants A and B were rated bad in the appearance of the thigh, knee, and hem width, implying that the leg width is inappropriate. Lastly, the appearance of the belt width of Pants C was poor compared to the other two Pants.

2)Result of comfort assessment

The movement assessment are measured both the standing and sitting positions <Tables 4, 5>. Pants A were rated as satisfactory in waist girth (3.20), hip girth (3.20), abdomen area (3.20), crotch (3.00), thigh (3.60) and knee (3.20) in the standing position. However, in the sitting position, the pants appeared to pull downward, yielding a low assessment in the location of the waist line (2.60) and waist girth (2.80). The pants were even more uncomfortable in the abdomen (2.40) and crotch (2.20).

Pants B were rated as above average in waist girth (3.00), hip girth (3.00), abdomen area (3.20), and crotch (3.80); however, the thigh (2.40) and knee (2.20) rated lower than average in the standing position. Because of this, the overall average grade was 2.88 and the satisfaction in comfort was lower than average. In the sitting position, the location of the waist line (1.60), waist girth (1.80), hip girth (2.80), abdomen part (2.40), thigh (2.20) and knee (1.40) garnered a lower assessment than in the standing position and resulted in a low comfort assessment of mean 2.15. It is assumed that the pants were pulled downward due to the narrow leg width and insufficient ease in thigh and knee. However, the crotch (3.40) showed above average satisfaction.

Pants C were rated average in satisfaction of the waist girth (3.00), hip girth (3.20), and abdomen area (3.20) in the standing position; however, they garnered higher satisfaction in the thigh (3.80) and knee (4.20).

The ease in the crotch (2.80) was rated below average and was also uncomfortable. In the sitting position, the pants pulled downward, resulting in below average satisfaction in the location of the waist line (2.60), waist girth (2.80), and abdomen part (2.80); the crotch was particularly uncomfortable. However, knee girth (4.00) still remained satisfactory.Fig .2-3-4

The three brands commonly were rated as average in satisfaction of the waist girth, hip girth, and abdomen area in the standing position; however, in the sitting position, all showed low comfort. Pants A and C had a short crotch depth and were rated uncomfortable in the crotch in the sitting position. Meanwhile, Pants B had a longer crotch depth than the others, even in the sitting position, which gave them a normal rating in comfort. However, Pants B appeared to be uncomfortable due to the narrow width in thigh and knee.

3.Suggestions for improvement of directlyimported American casual pants

The results of the assessment in wearing appearance and comfort of directly-imported American casual pants indicates that a pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. Based on the results, the following improvements are suggested <Fig. 567>.

Pants A had a short crotch depth, along with a low waist and hip girth, which resulted in a bad appearance and discomfort. The wide leg width and long leg length contributed to the bad appearance. Pants B had a longer crotch depth than the others but they had a bad appearance and discomfort due to the narrow leg width and narrow thigh, knee and hem width. The pants got pulled downward when sitting, making the waist and hip girth lower than they had to be, which resulted in a bad appearance and discomfort. Furthermore, the leg length was somewhat long. Pants C had a small waist and hip girth, and its short crotch depth resulted in a lower assessment in the appearance of the waist and hip girth and discomfort. The leg width was appropriate for a good appearance and comfort, but the belt width was wider than the others, resulting in lower satisfaction. The leg length was judged long.

Accordingly, the waist girth should be fixed at 86 cm in all 3 pants, with the girth of Pants C in waist extended 1 cm. The hip girth should be 97 cm, which is 1 cm shorter than Pants A and B, and 1 cm longer than Pants C. The crotch depth is longer in the Korean body shape than the American body shape. In this regard, Pants B were rated best with its 17.5 cm crotch depth. So, we suggest that Pants A and C be extended 2 cm and 2.5 cm respectively. To fit the short leg length of the Korean body shape, the length of the pant legs should be shortened by 75 cm according to the expert judges’ suggestions: Pants A need to be shortened 10 cm, Pants B should be shortened 3 cm, while Pants C should be shorted by 6 cm. Although the hem widths vary according to styles and designs, they should be amended to approximately 20 cm as in Pants C, which were rated very good in its appearance and comfort in thigh, knee and hem width. The knee girth and hem width should be amended accordingly. Pants A should cut its knee girth by 2 cm and hem width by 4 cm. Meanwhile, Pants B should be 4 cm longer in its knee girth and hem width. It is suggested that Pants C cut 0.3 cm from its belt width.

IV.Conclusion

This study suggested pattern adjustment details required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women by analyzing the pants’ fit through pattern analysis and wearing tests of three American brands, DKNY, Gap and Polo Ralph Lauren, in the Korean domestic market.

1.The characteristics of directly-imported American casual pants

The analysis of the pattern sizes of each brand found that Pants A and B are similar to each other in terms of waist and hip girth, whereas Pants C were somewhat smaller. Pants B had the longest crotch depth, whereas Pants C had the shortest. Pants A had the widest leg width, whereas Pants B had the narrowest. The leg length was long in all three brands.

2.The fit of directly-imported American apparel pants

The three American brands had some problems in different areas from the assessment of appearance and comfort.

Pants A had insufficient ease in the crotch part as the crotch depth was short. The hip girth received a low assessment in terms of appearance. Moreover, the hem widths were wide while the leg length was long, which also led to a low appearance assessment.

Pants B were expected to be most appropriate for Korean women’s bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, the pants appeared to pull downward due to the narrow thigh and the knee girth and hem width. Moreover, the crotch and hip girth received a poor appearance assessment. The leg length was found to be somewhat longer.

Finally, Pants C were rated as satisfactory for their thigh girth, knee girth, and hem width. However, the crotch part was uncomfortable as there was a short crotch depth. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment and the leg length was somewhat long.

3.The adjustment in fit of directly-imported American apparel pants

This study indicates that pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. Specifically, the adjustments needed are as follows: Crotch depths should be longer and hem widths and leg lengths should be adjusted. For instance, the crotch depths should be approximately 17.5 cm. We suggest the hem widths be approximately 20 cm, although the hem widths vary according to style and design. We also suggest a leg length of 75cm, a waist girth of 86 cm, and a hip girth of 97cm.